Every dish has a story. In this series, we sit down and chat with chefs around the city (and beyond) about the experiences they hope to create for their guests. As part of our discussion, they also recommend three delicious dishes that embody the heart and soul of the restaurant.
The Beach House Bistro
161 Wisconsin Ave., Pewaukee, (262) 696-4323
thebeachhousebistro.com
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It was a 5,000 mile journey that brought chef and restaurateur, Llazar Konda, to Wisconsin.
Konda, who is Greek and Albanian, moved to Milwaukee 15 years ago from Athens, Greece. Having worked in the service industry for over 15 years, he had already operated numerous restaurants in Europe.
“When I got here, I didn’t know English, so I started over,” he says. “But I found it so hospitable here. I got my citizenship in 2012, and that was one of the happiest days of my life. Here in America, if you work hard, you focus and you become part of the community, you will have success.”
After working in Milwaukee, Kondas opened two restaurants in Waukesha: The Crepe Cafe and Meli, which he sold in 2019. As he searched for a location for his next project, he found the lakefront property on Wisconsin Avenue in the Village of Pewaukee. There he opened The Beach House Bistro, a Mediterranean concept, in 2022.
Later this year, he’ll open yet another concept, a modern Italian restaurant called La Tavola on the Beach. Both will reflect his love for convivial, social dining experiences.
“My main focus is on the experience that people have,” says Konda. “I can cook all day long, and the food is one thing. But, I want them to feel as if they are in my home. I want them to feel as if they are in a beach house. I want them to gather together, talk with one another and I want them to go home and remember the experience.”
Konda says he purposefully created The Beach House menu to include shareable plates, encouraging interaction between guests as part of the dining experience. He also poured a piece of himself, his memories, into the dishes that he chose to serve.
“These are foods that I grew up eating,” he says. “The entire menu here is inspired by my mom’s cooking. I’ve tweaked things and made them my own; but they are based on what I grew up eating. So this concept is really all about family and memories.”
1. Tricolore
Housemade hummus, tzatziki and kalamata olives served with warm pita, $15 (add raw veggies, +$4).
“I grew up eating fresh, clean food. It’s very hot in Athens, so we eat food that sustains us, but also makes us feel good. All three of these spreads are done just the way we did them at home. The olives, the tzatziki, the hummus… I make them myself for the restaurant.”
2. Schawarma
Curry marinated chicken and veggies, served with tzatziki and warm pita, $17
“So many places have shawarma. But few have a shareable version. Shawarma was one of the first dishes that I made myself when I was growing up. And we ate it very similarly to how it’s served at the restaurant. It was eaten as a communal dish. You have the vegetables, the chicken and the curry. It’s so simple, even non-adventurous eaters love it.”
3. Lamb Lollipops
Petite lamb chops topped with chimichurri and served with creamy risotto with mushrooms, onions and pesto, $27. Note: This dish is a special, but it’s available on a regular basis.
“My grandfather raised lambs. So it was one of the first meats that I remember eating. The lamb was so fresh. In Greece, that’s how all the food is. It’s very simple. A bit of salt, pepper, olive oil and lamb. It’s beautiful. I’ve kept this dish relatively simple, but I’ve played with it a bit. Today it’s served with mushroom risotto and pesto. And I’ve topped the lamb with chimichurri made with olive oil, parsley and garlic.”
Bonus: Baklava
Konda, who brought his parents to Wisconsin after he became established, says his mother still helps out in the kitchen. “Even now, she comes in and makes things like the baklava and the spinach pie,” he says. "She spends hours making sure that they are done just right."
Lori is an avid cook whose accrual of condiments and spices is rivaled only by her cookbook collection. Her passion for the culinary industry was birthed while balancing A&W root beer mugs as a teenage carhop, fed by insatiable curiosity and fueled by the people whose stories entwine with each and every dish. She’s had the privilege of chronicling these tales via numerous media, including OnMilwaukee and in her book “Milwaukee Food.” Her work has garnered journalism awards from entities including the Milwaukee Press Club.
When she’s not eating, photographing food, writing or recording the FoodCrush podcast, you’ll find Lori seeking out adventures with her husband Paul, traveling, cooking, reading, learning, snuggling with her cats and looking for ways to make a difference.
