It’s been 12 years since Chef Karen Bell opened the doors at Bavette La Boucherie. What began as a small cafe and butcher shop on Menomonee Street has since evolved into a destination restaurant at 217 N. Broadway, offering everything from casual sandwiches and housemade charcuterie to refined, fine-dining-style entrées.
Over the past decade, Bell’s dedication to her craft has powered her through a relocation, the challenges of a global pandemic and earned her numerous accolades — including five James Beard semifinalist nods and two nominations for Best Chef Midwest.
Now, in an effort to prioritize family — especially time with her daughter — Bell says she is giving serious consideration to selling the restaurant. In the meantime, she is implementing operational changes that support better work-life balance, including the elimination of dinner service starting this August.
Balancing priorities
“I am asked a lot about being a female in a male-dominated industry and I never felt it was a challenge or disadvantage, until I had a child," says Bell. "This is likely true for many women in many industries – there is a certain maternal instinct, coupled with expectations, that makes it harder for women to take on less traditional roles in the household. I don't know how it is for men, but I've never felt pressure to choose between my personal life and business until I had my daughter.
"I think I have done fairly well up until now, and a large part of that is the support that I have had in place, both at work and at home. However, I am reaching a point where working 12-14 hours a day is not feasible. Now that my daughter is older, she realizes when I am not there or when I am working, so my priorities have shifted. My number one priority is being a working mom, but the mom part of that is very important and I need to be present to do that.”
Recent staff changes, Bell notes, have also prompted her to reevaluate her role and capacity.
“Three of my night cooks have moved on, and filling those positions has been really tough,” she says. "It's left the back-of-house very slim, meaning I have to fill in more often, particularly in the evening."
To rectify the imbalance in the shifts, she has decided to pare down to one shift, as many restaurants do. The main difference is that she'll be focusing on lunch rather than dinner.
Changes at Bavette
“I’ve given this a lot of thought, and I’m at a point where I would be ready to sell, if the right opportunity came along,” she says, noting that Bavette is profitable and has been the busiest it's ever been since the move to the new location on Broadway.
In the meantime, Bell is focused on a model that supports work-life balance and operational sustainability — a model that could carry her through the 2½ years remaining on her lease, if needed.
As a result, Saturday, Aug. 2 will mark the final evening of dinner service at Bavette. Beginning Sunday, Aug. 3, the restaurant will be open seven days a week with lunch and happy hour service from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Details about menu updates and the new happy hour offerings will be shared in the coming weeks.
The revised schedule not only allows Bell to continue offering full hours to her staff, but also gives her flexibility to host special dinners and private events.
Bell acknowledges the future is still unfolding — but says this shift is a necessary step toward a more balanced, sustainable path.
“I don’t know how things might change moving forward,” she says. “But it’s important to make adjustments that allow me to care for myself — and my family.”
Serious inquiries about the purchase of Bavette La Boucherie can be directed to Bell at info@bavettemilwaukee.com.
Currently, Bavette is open Tuesday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Reservations are available online. Beginning Aug. 3, hours will be Monday through Sunday from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.
As a passionate champion of the local dining scene, Lori has reimagined the restaurant critic's role into that of a trusted dining concierge, guiding food lovers to delightful culinary discoveries and memorable experiences.
Lori is an avid cook whose accrual of condiments and spices is rivaled only by her cookbook collection. Her passion for the culinary industry was birthed while balancing A&W root beer mugs as a teenage carhop, fed by insatiable curiosity and fueled by the people whose stories entwine with every dish. Lori is the author of two books: the "Wisconsin Field to Fork" cookbook and "Milwaukee Food". Her work has garnered journalism awards from entities including the Milwaukee Press Club. In 2024, Lori was honored with a "Top 20 Women in Hospitality to Watch" award by the Wisconsin Restaurant Association.
When she’s not eating, photographing food, writing or planning for TV and radio spots, you’ll find Lori seeking out adventures with her husband Paul, traveling, cooking, reading, learning, snuggling with her cats and looking for ways to make a difference.