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When Amilinda opened in August of 2015, Milwaukee didn’t know it was getting more than just a new restaurant. It was gaining a movement.
Over the past decade, Chef Gregory León has served up far more than Spanish and Portuguese-inspired cuisine. Under his direction, the restaurant has become a second home to regulars, a launchpad for emerging chefs, and a sanctuary for Milwaukee’s queer and BIPOC communities.
As Amilinda celebrates its 10th anniversary, it’s clear that León’s legacy isn’t just about food—it’s about what happens when a chef decides to use his kitchen as a force for good.
10 years at the table
It was September of 2012 when Chef León first came to Milwaukee. He’d left his post as executive chef at Hibiscus in Oakland, California, the previous spring and had spent his summer traveling. Along the way, he fell in love with Portland, Oregon, and thought he might attempt to make a go of it there. But a friend urged him to visit Milwaukee. León decided to stay.
Just a couple months after his arrival, he began actively hosting pop-up dinners, eventually partnering with Chef Nell Benton to host a pop-up residency on weekends at The National Cafe. Just a year later, Amilinda would open as a brick-and-mortar restaurant in the space that had housed the Chinese & Thai Hot Café on Wisconsin Avenue.
Ten years later, León is a four-time James Beard Award honoree, having been nominated for Best Chef Midwest in 2022 and 2023, and a semifinalist for Outstanding Chef in 2024 and 2025.
While he’s served thousands of memorable meals and helped guests celebrate countless milestones, León’s impact reaches far beyond the plate.
This year alone, he has contributed to meaningful change across multiple sectors of our community. His ongoing work with the Ronald McDonald House has provided comfort to families during difficult times, while his decade of leadership and participation in the Fondy Feast continues to strengthen our local food systems.
Perhaps most remarkable is Chef León's commitment to uplifting others. Through Tables Across Borders, a program he helped establish in 2019, he has raised thousands of dollars for refugee families while celebrating their culinary heritage.
He has opened the doors at Amilinda, making it a safe haven for the queer and HIV+ communities in Milwaukee and a go-to spot for up-and-coming restaurants to host pop-ups and collaborations. His mentorship of emerging chefs, particularly those from underrepresented backgrounds, demonstrates his dedication to creating a more inclusive hospitality industry.
Chef León consistently donates his time and talents to causes ranging from hunger relief to LGBTQ+ healthcare, while also mentoring students and advocating for equity in hospitality.
What distinguishes Chef León is how he has transformed his restaurant into a platform for community good. He embodies the belief that the hospitality industry can and should be a catalyst for positive change in Milwaukee, and he has acted upon that belief to make it so.
10 memories from the Amilinda fam
To further commemorate this anniversary, we’ve reached out to ten colleagues, friends and individuals who dine regularly at Amilinda and asked them to share one of their favorite memories with Chef León and Amilinda.
1. Meeting Greg
“I remember the first time I met Greg. It was at a fundraiser that we were both doing dishes for. I went over to his table and introduced myself and tried his food. I can't remember what he made, but I remember it was really good. He talked super fast and I initially pegged him for an East Coaster. I instantly liked him. I could tell he had a big heart. When he reached out to me to see if I’d be open to letting him do a pop-up at The National, I didn’t hesitate in saying ‘yes.' Sometimes you just get a feeling about someone.” – Nell Benton, Milwaukee Realtor & Former Chef/Restaurateur
2. Spiritual food
“So, this is the thing about Amilinda--no matter when you go it is a lovely, delicious experience! What stands out for me are occasions when I brought two different groups of my women-friends and family to Amilinda for dinner. I have a special memory of enjoying a meal with my daughter, Sojourner, her godmother, Gloria, and some of our other treasured friends. I love reserving the table in the far, southwest corner of the restaurant, tucked away by the bar. The intimacy and aesthetics of the space foster soul-filled conversations and the robust flavors of the cuisine satisfies a hunger you did not even know you had. I remember one of my friends closing her eyes, as she held a fork full of food in her mouth, and declaring, ‘Venice, this is spiritual food.’ Indeed it is. I love introducing folks to Amilinda.” – Venice Williams, Executive Director, Fondy Food Center & Alice's Garden
3. “Our” restaurant
"Amilinda has a special place in our hearts…we were married there in 2016, one year after their opening. We instinctively knew it was the right venue for the occasion. Since then, Amilinda is “our” restaurant, the go-to place for any special occasion. And Greg? He is a friend, a very special friend, who helped us get through the pandemic with a great attitude.” – Enrica Fracchia-Miller and Bill Miller
4. Making Milwaukee better
“Chef Gregory León and Amilinda are cultural and culinary gems in our Milwaukee and Wisconsin community! A meal at Amilinda is a welcome epicurean delight delivered with sincerity and warmth. I met Greg over seven years ago (and auspiciously during the Thanksgiving holiday season) when he agreed to host the Tables Across Borders project and later as he organized the Hungry Hearts initiative. Both are food security and culinary awareness pop-up projects benefitting small businesses, immigrant and refugee chefs and the general community.
"Chef León is brilliant, collaborative and innovative as he balances charity work and small business advocacy with the culinary ingenuity, rigor, art and delivery necessary to maintain Amilinda. Over the years, I’ve witnessed Amilinda deliver fantastic menus that expose Milwaukeeans to Portuguese and Spanish global-inspired cuisine and host many pop-ups that mobilize and celebrate local chefs and support various social causes. Happy 10th anniversary to Chef Greg, Amilinda and the wonderful staff of Amilinda! Milwaukee is a better place because of your presence!” –Kai Gardner Mishlove, Director of Advocacy & Alliances for the Milwaukee Jewish Federation JCRC & Founder of Tables Across Borders
5. Chosen family
“I've got a LOT of memories about my adventures with Greg, but not all of them are appropriate for print, LOL... So I'll remember him on my wedding day, which was almost three years ago to the day. After the ceremony, there's that chunk of time where the couple takes photos with everyone, and anyone can tell you I just do not care for taking pictures. After the photographer was done with us as a couple and our different configurations of families, she had each of us take pictures with our ‘chosen family,’ those friends who we are closest to. And without missing a beat, Greg was right there, grabbing my hand, wearing his cute little bowtie, making us all look good and making me feel truly loved. He is a great guy to have as one of my best friends. – Caitlin Cullen, Director, Kinship Community Food Center
6. Memorable meals
“We returned from vacation and went to pick up some clothes at P’dia on Wisconsin Avenue. The owners said we should check out the new restaurant, which had opened that week across the street. While reading the menu, someone opened the door and introduced himself as Gregory León, the owner and chef. We talked about his menu and every item looked delicious. We made a reservation on the spot and have been returning at least once a month since then. The food is still delicious.” – Christine Radiske and Herb Quigley
7. Everybody knows your name
"When you walk into Amilinda, you're greeted by Gregory and his superb staff, and it's like being invited into someone's kitchen to share a warm and comforting meal. From the first time we dined there 10 years ago and every time since, we have been made to feel like family! Gregory always has news to tell you and amazing food to sample. There is no place else like this in Milwaukee--it's like ‘Cheers’ was on TV. Folks know your name and make you feel like you belong nowhere else." – Roger Carp and Debbie Recht
8. Tenacity & wisdom
“Gregory provides memorable dining experiences through his tenacity and wisdom. I remember a fellow restaurateur letting Gregory know he was moving onto the block.‘That’s great, as long as it’s not Portuguese!’, he replied.” – Robert Munger
9. Making the world better
“The first time we sat down for dinner after Amilinda opened, the energy was palpable. There was a sense that something very different and exciting was happening in our city. Here was a menu that challenged you to try something new and rewarded you. It was a menu that trusted that the dining public had a more adventurous appetite—or was willing to try— blood sausage, rabbit, and bone marrow. Chef Greg and the Amilinda team have broadened Milwaukee's horizons with outstanding cuisine, but also raised the bar for what it means to be a safe third space of true inclusivity, respect, and kindness. Everyone is treated with care, in good times and tough ones.
"The day Anthony Bourdain died, my husband and I were grief-stricken. Without really talking about it, we found ourselves walking through the front door of Amilinda that evening. I remember seeing a framed picture of Tony in the front window that Greg had placed there, and as so many times before and since, we knew we were in the right place. I don't think we even had the chance to talk to Greg that night (it was a very busy evening) but we made eye contact and exchanged a few facial expressions as he hustled through the full dining room. The kinship and understanding were evident, and we once again felt at home. Amilinda is the kind of place that puts you at ease and allows the outside world to fall away for a few minutes.
"Chef Greg has set an incredible example that service doesn't end at the end of a shift, and he's changed what it means to be a chef and own a restaurant in Milwaukee—that it can go beyond an excellent menu and enticing wine list and become about what we can do for each other, to commiserate or share a laugh and make the world feel like a lighter and friendlier place. I think the enduring legacy of Amilinda will be the community building and advocacy that has reached far beyond the restaurant's front door. We're so fortunate that Greg saw the potential here and decided to call Milwaukee home." –Kira Sagel
10. The next generation of chefs
“One of the many truly amazing events at Amilinda that we have revisited most frequently whenever we think about Chef Greg León, scripted Greg in the role – not as master chef – but rather as a passionate, masterful mentor. On this evening in April, Greg invited five area sous chefs (frequently the crucial yet unsung heroes of the culinary team) to come together and showcase their considerable talents at Amilinda. The evening was a deliciously memorable event that highlighted Greg's selfless and sincere involvement in nurturing the next generation of chefs, in spotlighting Milwaukee's thriving culinary scene and in supporting our diverse community!” –Terry and Holly Cogswell
To the next 10 years
In an industry known for its challenges, enduring for ten years is no small feat. But what makes Amilinda’s milestone so meaningful is that its legacy reaches far beyond the dining room. Chef León has built more than a restaurant. He has created a movement rooted in care, equity, and purpose.
As Amilinda enters its second decade, one thing is certain: the best meals, memories, and moments are still to come.
As a passionate champion of the local dining scene, Lori has reimagined the restaurant critic's role into that of a trusted dining concierge, guiding food lovers to delightful culinary discoveries and memorable experiences.
Lori is an avid cook whose accrual of condiments and spices is rivaled only by her cookbook collection. Her passion for the culinary industry was birthed while balancing A&W root beer mugs as a teenage carhop, fed by insatiable curiosity and fueled by the people whose stories entwine with every dish. Lori is the author of two books: the "Wisconsin Field to Fork" cookbook and "Milwaukee Food". Her work has garnered journalism awards from entities including the Milwaukee Press Club. In 2024, Lori was honored with a "Top 20 Women in Hospitality to Watch" award by the Wisconsin Restaurant Association.
When she’s not eating, photographing food, writing or planning for TV and radio spots, you’ll find Lori seeking out adventures with her husband Paul, traveling, cooking, reading, learning, snuggling with her cats and looking for ways to make a difference.