I truly believe one of the most neglected cocktails out there is a crisp, chilled glass of the bubbly. Many people think they don’t like champagne because all they have sampled is a sickeningly sweet Martini and Rossi Asti Spumante -- not to be confused with Moscato d’Asti or other Spumante sparkling wines from Piedmont which I’m sure Bobby Tanzilo will agree with me are not so syrupy and are infinitely more enjoyable than the $7 a bottle version you drink out of plastic glassware at 12 a.m. on the first of the year (He might also suggest a bubbly red Brachetto d’Acqui! –ed.).
In fact, of the Italian versions, I actually have developed a devout liking for some Moscatos d’Asti, which are technically frizzantes, or semi-sparklers. I also am a growing fan of various Proseccos, which Scott, who always claimed dislike for bubbly, will now opt for over a glass of regular white wine; and of course, within a Bellini at Festa Italiana in July.
Champagnes encounter another obstacle in that most people equate drinking sparklers with celebration, so they are often overlooked save for special occasions. But, bubbly is a refreshing drink option even if you’re simply celebrating the fact that it is Friday, and with more and more area restaurants carrying champagnes by the glass, it is also a very good and inexpensive alternative to a glass of shiraz or even a sauvignon blanc or riesling.
Prices for champagne by the glass typically run $7-$15 per glass, much the same as wine by the glass these days, and many places are starting to offer the aforementioned bellinis (pureed peach and champagne), black velvets (champagne and Guinness), and champagne cocktails (champagne, bitters, cognac, and sugar) in addition to the standard mimosa (champagne and orange juice) offerings.
If you want to sip a traditional French sparkler, two of my favorites are Veuve Cliquot Ponsardin (affectionately deemed Yellow Label), and Moët & Chandon Étoile. My favorite California cuvée is a Roederer Estates Brut, in part because I sat on a porch in the vineyard and sampled all their bubblies, but also because, like the two aforementioned French champagnes, it isn’t too sweet, it isn’t too dry, and it’s perfect to sip on any occasion. Try it. You’ll like it.
Amy L. Schubert is a 15-year veteran of the hospitality industry and has worked in every aspect of bar and restaurant operations. A graduate of Marquette University (B.A.-Writing Intensive English, 1997) and UW-Milwaukee (M.A.-Rhetoric, Composition, and Professional Writing, 2001), Amy still occasionally moonlights as a guest bartender and she mixes a mean martini.
The restaurant business seems to be in Amy’s blood, and she prides herself in researching and experimenting with culinary combinations and cooking techniques in her own kitchen as well as in friends’ restaurants. Both she and her husband, Scott, are avid cooks and “wine heads,” and love to entertain friends, family and neighbors as frequently as possible.
Amy and Scott live with their boys, Alex and Nick, in Bay View, where they are all very active in the community. Amy finds great pleasure in sharing her knowledge and passions for food and writing in her contributions to OnMilwaukee.com.
