By OnMilwaukee Staff Writers   Published Mar 27, 2002 at 5:29 AM

Meg Ryan, Julia Roberts and Sandra Bullock should all be forced to see "Kissing Jessica Stein." It would be an enlightening and educational experience for them. They would immediately understand how tepid and lame the romantic comedies they have starred in are, and vow to never subject audiences to them ever again. A person can dream right?

"Kissing Jessica Stein" is a delightful and immensely entertaining confection. Like the equally enjoyable "Amelie," it's the kind of movie that puts a smile on your face and keeps it there long after you exit the theater.

Jessica (Jennifer Westfeldt, who could be Katie Holmes' older sister) is a single and lonely writer living in New York City. She has zero luck with men, as evidenced by a hilarious series of nightmarish dates with guys who say things to her like, "You're very self-defecating."

Helen (Heather Juergensen) is an assistant director at an art gallery who is seeing three men, but remains unsatisfied. Curious about bisexuality and wanting to try new things, she places a "woman seeking woman" personal ad in the Village Voice.

In the ad, Helen uses a quote by one of Jessica's favorite writers, which instantly grabs the latter's attention. Though she has never thought about being in a relationship with a woman before, she answers the ad.

Jessica tries to bail on their date, but Helen eventually convinces her to have one drink. Of course, they hit it off almost right away. Helen is smart, funny and sexy, and the proverbial sparks fly.

But normally conservative Jessica has a hard time adjusting to it all. She is confused and embarrassed, and makes it clear that they have to go very slow. Before kissing Helen for the first time, she asks, "Is this with tongue?"

Gradually, Jessica and Helen become involved in a serious relationship, save for the fact that Jessica keeps it a secret. This becomes a problem, especially for Helen, who is sick of Jessica not including her in all of the important things in her life, like her brother's wedding. Sooner or later, something's got to give.

The film's strongest point, and the thing that separates it from what Hollywood produces, is its writing. Westfeldt and Juergensen wrote the script, based on their own Off-Broadway play. It avoids cliché and predictability, instead focusing on character development. The writing is sharp and funny, but never cloying or forced.

The people in most romantic comedies never seem real. Their personalities and problems are stuck in a world that only exists in the movies. It's the exact opposite here. Jessica and Helen are three-dimensional, complex and authentic. They could be anyone walking down the street.

The cast is wonderful, with excellent supporting work from Tovah Feldshuh as Jessica's mom, Scott Cohen as her ex-boyfriend and boss and Jackie Hoffman as her best friend. They make the most of their small yet pivotal roles.

But, appropriately, "Kissing Jessica Stein" belongs to Westfeldt and Juergensen. The former is adorable and sweet in a girl-next-door way, while the latter is more assured and cosmopolitan. Both are incredibly likeable and completely believable as a couple (another rarity in this genre).

The film only stumbles a bit near the end, where it loses focus and becomes unsure how to wrap it all up. But it manages to recover and conclude in a more than satisfying manner.

"Kissing Jessica Stein" has the mass appeal of a crossover indie hit like "The Full Monty." Seeing as how it's far better, hopefully it will find as wide an audience. A smart and funny romantic comedy for grown-ups is as common as snow in the desert. Don't let this one pass you by.

"Kissing Jessica Stein" opens at Landmark's Oriental Theatre on Wed., March 27. Click here for showtimes.