{image1} It could have been a mud hole called a lake, but the Kickapoo Valley Reserve instead is a beautiful place in any season.
The 8,600 acres in Vernon County once consisted of primarily farm land. The Kickapoo River, called by the Native Americans the river "that goes there and then here," often flooded and eroded substantial portions of that land.
So, the powers-to-be three decades or more ago decided to build a dam. The federal government bought up 149 farms, sending people elsewhere and cutting local school enrollments in some cases in half. The U.S. Army Corps of Engineers started building an earthen dam that would also create a recreational lake. Many thought it would be a boost to the economy of the area.
But, environmentalists argued that rare plants grew in the area that would be flooded by the lake. Ho-Chunk Indians expressed concerns about burial grounds in the valley. Finally, an environmental study showed soils were such that the lake would instead be a mud hole. The project stopped in 1973.
The acreage stood virtually unused for years. Legal disputes flooded the courts. Some people dumped garbage in it. Too few really appreciated what a wonderful spot it could be.
Then, in the early '90s, serious discussions started about the federal government turning over the land to an 11-member board of local people and the Ho-Chunks. It would be an opportunity to develop the acreage into a reserve, specializing in various forms of eco-tourism activities. The transfer officially happened Dec. 28, 2000. Today, the Kickapoo Valley Reserve, to be called KVR in future references, sits as one of the natural jewels in the state.
I am privileged to live near KVR. My wife and I hike in it year around. We watch the blossoms emerge in the spring, enjoy its density of lush foliage in the summer, revel in its autumn colors and, yes, even enjoy it in winter.
In fact, winter is such a wonderful season in KVR that the governing board holds an annual Winter Festival. This year's was held on Jan. 7 and included a fun run, horse-drawn sleigh rides, skating and skiing, warming fires and history lessons about the Ho-Chunks and many other activities.
One of the highlights of the event is Vegetable Sailing, in which participants get to slingshot veggies at a concrete tower that would have been part of the dam structure. The KVR commissioners decided to keep the tower as a symbol of what could have happened to the land. The veggie sailing is a way of saying people are glad it didn't.
Tours also were conducted this year of the KVR headquarters, which opened last year. The facility provides information and educational programs on the area, and serves as a community center.
The visitor center was funded through the state Knowles Nelson Stewardship Fund and Kickapoo Valley Reserve Agency Funds to the tune of $2.5 million. The main building utilizes geothermal heating and cooling and solar heating elements to save energy.
KVR sits in the Driftless Area, a unique hilly region which either was untouched by glaciers or had the type of geology that eroded differently. Geologists still debate what exactly created the terrain.
Sandstone outcroppings tower above the Kickapoo River, which is considered one of the best canoeing rivers in the Midwest. In the summers, hundreds of canoers start along the river near Ontario, which is next to Wildcat Mountain State Park, and meander along the river.
No matter what the season, you might want to stop at the Rockton Bar, about halfway between Ontario and LaFarge. It offers a great place to have a cold one in the summer or warm up from cross country skiing in the winter.
You can find Amish crafts and artisans tucked away in these hills or in the small towns like LaFarge, Viola, Readstown and others. The valley outside the reserve is home to many organic farms and the largest organic coop in the country, Organic Valley.
But, KVR primarily is about enjoying nature. Several species of endangered and rare plants can be found in the reserve. Hemlocks, oaks, pines and other trees grow in abundance.
More than 100 species of bird, including some rare species, have been designated in KVR. Deer, coyotes, fox and many other animals are plentiful. There have even been some reports of cougar near KVR in Vernon County, but the presence of the big cats has not been officially confirmed. Trout fishing is excellent throughout the area.
No motorized vehicles are allowed on KVR trails, with the exception of snowmobiles in the winter on some. From May 1 to Nov. 15, horse and bike trails are open. Permits are required. Registration for them is on the honor system, at the KVR headquarters and seven self-service stations around the reserve.
If you like to camp, don't expect a lot of modern hookups. Wilderness campsites provide a real nature experience. Put your cell phones away too, because the terrain doesn't make for very good, if any, reception.
History buffs have a wonderful opportunity to study Native American history and culture in the reserve. The Ho-Chunks who have 1,200 acres of what was their indigenous land in the reserve offer education sessions during the year.
It's hoped that KVR provides some additional tourism over the years, without having major negative impacts on the unique eco-system of the area. An estimated 10,000 people are expected to tour the KVR center in its first year of operation, according to a market analysis.
For years, I came only as a visitor; then I came as a part-time resident. Now as a local, I want others to know how wonderful KVR is yet also don't want to contribute to trashing of the area by tourists.
So, if you come, respect what is here. If you do so, you can enjoy KVR in all seasons.
