Pride Month might be wrapping up, but the spirit of the celebration continues as Mother’s, the awaited LGBTQ+ third space prepares to open its doors at 2900 S. Kinnickinnic Ave.
The official opening date is Thursday, June 26, with reservations available beginning at 5 p.m.
At the helm of the project is Vanessa Rose, an accomplished chef whose career has led her to pursue the creation of a safe place for the queer community. Through her efforts, the former home of Sage and The White House has been transformed into an inclusive restaurant, bar, arts venue and event space which will operate with a model that treats every employee with equality, dignity and respect.
Painted in darker earth tones, the interior walls at Mother's will soon display locally made art, which will be available for purchase.
In addition to art, the decor in each space alludes to a subtle theme. Saphhic witchcraft presides in the dining room where Hecate represents the goddess of crossroads, sorcery, liminal spaces and protection of children and the marginalized.
Of course, there’s as much humor in the decor as there is sobriety. Take, for instance, the miniature model of Kniesler’s White House displayed above the doorway to the parlor. If it looks a bit “Beetlejuice-esque” to you, you’re not imagining things.
Speaking of the parlor, that’s located just off East of the dining room, and its decor reflects themes associated with the Norse goddess Freya, associated with love, fertility and the ability to see and influence the future, and the Germanic goddess Eostre, symbolic of spring, fertility and new beginnings.
Even the restrooms are decorated with the themes of flora and fauna.
On the menu
The dinner menu will begin with a collection of small plates that were served at the Mother’s pop-up dinners that Rose hosted prior to securing a brick-and-mortar location.
That includes dishes like Burrata (huancaina, chimichurri, crostini, sherry reduction, $21); Madeira Mushrooms (Spanish sofrito, cream, crostini, chives, $19); Tempura Fried Tofu (doenjang, scallion, cilantro, dandelion greens, black sesame, $18); Tikka Masala Gnocchi (turmeric gnocchi, roasted cauliflower, peas, pickled black mustard seed, $25).
There will also be items like Liang Fen (cantaloupe, cilantro, mala, pork sung, scallion, $13); Girl Dinner (Pleasant Ridge Reserve, Vanilla Cardona, Red Square, pickled fennel, chili and fig preserves and crackers, $33); Cumin and Cinnamon Braised Pork Shoulder (quinoa, polenta, cilantro, pepita, $37); and Berbere Spiced Hanger Steak (celery root puree, demi glace, radish and kohlrabi slaw, $61).
“If you’ve joined us before, some things will look familiar,” she says. “These were favorites for us to make and favorites for people to eat. And there’s a nice balance between meat-based dishes and vegetarian options.”
Mother’s will feature a full bar with the usual suspects, a cocktail program and a full complement of zero-proof offerings.
As for pricing, it will follow the European dining model. Tax and tip are included in the price, so gratuity is not expected. Should someone decide to leave a tip, it will be divided equally among the entire staff.
Currently, both the front and back of house are comprised of a group of accomplished industry professionals, including Steve Rawson (Balzac, Odd Duck, Braise), Max Karol (Braise), Nick Hoover (Bacchus, Carbon Steakhouse, Ardent) in the kitchen.
Darnell Watson (This is It) will work as maitre d and perform in-house as Iconika Strange. The cocktail program will be headed up by Kham Morgan (Big Easy, This is It). Wine and wine education will be handled by Ben Conlin (Lupi & Iris, Ardent) before he leaves for further adventures in Australia. Meanwhile, George Hartmann and Liv Caravello (Saint Kate - The Arts Hotel), will handle additional front-of-house tasks and oversee the cafe program when it begins.
“We are trying to foster a team-driven sport,” says Rose. “The front and back of house will flow together as needed.”
Moving forward
Beginning in July, evening hours will be extended until midnight and one-woman shows with Iconika Strange in a “table to table burlesque cabaret-style format” will be featured regularly.
By the end of July or early August, Mother’s will also be open during the day, offering simple, affordable cafe-style fare and providing a place for folks to come, grab a bite, get some work done, have meetings or even just pass the time with a board game.
Rose also has plans to establish a patio for al fresco dining in the garden just behind the building.
“As soon as we can afford to purchase them, I have my eyes on bistro sets that I’m excited to purchase for the garden patio,” Rose notes, adding that plans for the addition of a pergola are also in the works.
Rose expects that the second floor of the building will also be permitted for use by sometime this fall, giving Mother’s a more dedicated space for the cafe concept as well as overflow for the dining area.
On Monday, June 30, Mother’s will host their first Collaborative Tasting Menu Dinner, a Pride Month Finale featuring dishes from Chefs Gregory Leon of Amilinda, Mary Kastman of Purslane, Dana Spandet of Flour Girl & Flame and the kitchen team at Mothers. The dinner will feature seven courses for $100 ($120 inclusive of tip). Reservations are available online.
Before you go
Mother’s will not start off with a soft opening. But its opening will be introduced in phases to allow the staff time to adjust to the venue’s pace and develop their stride.
Beginning June 26, Mother’s will be open Thursday through Monday from 5 to 10 p.m., with Mondays set aside as service industry night. Reservations are highly encouraged.
By mid-July (or potentially sooner), hours will be extended from 5 to midnight with regular entertainment from Iconika Strange added to the schedule. And, by early August, Mother’s will be functioning at full capacity with coffee, tea, beverages and affordable cafe-style fare offered Thursday through Monday from noon to 5 p.m. Reservations will also be encouraged for the cafe.
Since Mother’s is located in an historical building, there is no elevator. Guests with mobility concerns are asked to please make note of them when they make their reservations. “We’ll go above and beyond to ensure that you are well taken care of,” says Rose.
Mother’s is also available for private parties, events and weddings. For more information, visit hobmke.com.
As a passionate champion of the local dining scene, Lori has reimagined the restaurant critic's role into that of a trusted dining concierge, guiding food lovers to delightful culinary discoveries and memorable experiences.
Lori is an avid cook whose accrual of condiments and spices is rivaled only by her cookbook collection. Her passion for the culinary industry was birthed while balancing A&W root beer mugs as a teenage carhop, fed by insatiable curiosity and fueled by the people whose stories entwine with every dish. Lori is the author of two books: the "Wisconsin Field to Fork" cookbook and "Milwaukee Food". Her work has garnered journalism awards from entities including the Milwaukee Press Club. In 2024, Lori was honored with a "Top 20 Women in Hospitality to Watch" award by the Wisconsin Restaurant Association.
When she’s not eating, photographing food, writing or planning for TV and radio spots, you’ll find Lori seeking out adventures with her husband Paul, traveling, cooking, reading, learning, snuggling with her cats and looking for ways to make a difference.
