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Looking for new spots to try? During Dining Month, Lori Fredrich is dishing out must-tries in 20 different dining categories, from brunch to BBQ and everything in between. Here's what she's recommended so far!
These days, enjoying fresh, high quality seafood in the Midwest is far easier than in the past. That’s good news for seafood lovers (including me) who want to enjoy great fish and shellfish dishes in between trips to the coast. That said, sourcing matters; and it comes at a cost (as the adage states: “You get what you pay for). Fortunately, if you choose well, your experience will be well worth the splurge.
Here are five local restaurants that take care to deliver some of the best of the sea.
Birch
459 E. Pleasant St., (414) 323-7372
birchonpleasant.com
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There are few things more delightful than dinner at Birch and – if you love fresh vibrant seafood – there are a few can't miss dishes.
Take the Steelhead crudo on the menu, for instance. The preparation changes with what's fresh and in season; but the flavor profile is always memorable. Right now you'll find the fish paired with charred pepper broth, husk cherries and second-harvest strawberries.
Meanwhile, you can always count on a wood-fired fish dish or two. One is the Contramar-inspired fish. Currently, it's rubbed with poblano and fermented tomato and served with warm tortillas and seasonal accompaniments. This week you'll also find ember-roasted walleye served with Ishtar squash, chermoula and a warm avocado squash broth.
Lupi & Iris
777 N. Van Buren St., (414) 293-9090
lupiandiris.com
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Seafood is among the stars at Lupi & Iris where the menu takes inspiration from the French and Italian Rivieras. Dishes are fresh, clean and classic, which means they depend all the more on the quality of the seafood.
Creamy risotto is enhanced by tarragon and tomato and bejeweled with scallops, shrimp and mussels. Meanwhile, sea bass is complemented by clams, artichokes, tomato, fennel and the picante flavor of Spanish chorizo.
Even the simplest dishes exhibit balance and technique. Take for instance their sweet, delicate Dover sole, which is fileted tableside and served with earthy mushrooms, potatoes, lemon and persillade.
Harbor House
550 N. Harbor Dr., (414) 395-4900
bartolottas.com/harbor-house
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Pristinely sourced seafood has been a longtime hallmark at this restaurant where lake views make the experience all the more noteworthy (you might even forget you’re not dining on the coast).
As for their seafood selection, you’ll always find a lovely slate of carefully sourced fresh oysters (often varieties from both the East and West coast), along with standards like shrimp and crab cakes. Move into the entrees section and you’ll find accessible, seasonal fish preparations like Hudson Canyon sea scallops with bacon, sweet potatoes, cauliflower, peppers and pomegranate gastrique; or whole branzino with smashed fingerlings, delicata squash and anchovy butter.
Looking for a more casual take? Grab a seat at the bar and indulge in a lobster roll. They offer both a chilled Maine-style option with Old Bay mayo and celery or a warm Connecticut-style roll with nothing more than butter to gild the sweet lobster lily.
Third Coast Provisions
724 N. Milwaukee St., (414) 323-7434
thirdcoastprovisions.com
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Third Coast Provisions offers guests both an opulent dining experience (gorgeous, but not intimidating) and a menu of thoughtful, seasonal dishes including a variety of seafood options.
Starters include fresh oysters served on the half shell with nuoc cham mignonette; grilled "Milwaukee style" oysters; or luxurious lobster and crab potholes bathed in warm garlic herb butter and served with house sourdough.
Meanwhile, seasonal entrees are infused with global inspiration that plays out in dishes like Great Lakes Walleye with coconut curry, crispy rice, seasonal vegetables and palm sugar; or Ora king salmon with creamed corn, pork belly, cucumber, phyllo and chili yogurt.
St. Paul Fish Company
400 N. Water St., (414) 220-8383
6200 W. Mequon Rd., (262) 200-9909
stpaulfish.com
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If you’d prefer a more casual environs, you’ll find it at St. Paul, where you can choose between the bustle of the Public Market in the Historic Third Ward or the spacious rustic crab shack vibe at The Cannery, their dine-in eatery near the Mequon Public Market. Either way – since both locations double as a fish markets – their expertise is sourcing great fish.
Visit and you’ll find casual staples like oysters on the half shell, steamed mussels or clams and their popular New England-style lobster roll. But you’ll also find a slew of grilled fish options, along with popular items like pan-seared jumbo day pack scallops served with rice, vegetables and a choice of sauces. In Mequon, you can even get New England-style crab, lobster or seafood boils.
As a passionate champion of the local dining scene, Lori has reimagined the restaurant critic's role into that of a trusted dining concierge, guiding food lovers to delightful culinary discoveries and memorable experiences.
Lori is an avid cook whose accrual of condiments and spices is rivaled only by her cookbook collection. Her passion for the culinary industry was birthed while balancing A&W root beer mugs as a teenage carhop, fed by insatiable curiosity and fueled by the people whose stories entwine with every dish. Lori is the author of two books: the "Wisconsin Field to Fork" cookbook and "Milwaukee Food". Her work has garnered journalism awards from entities including the Milwaukee Press Club. In 2024, Lori was honored with a "Top 20 Women in Hospitality to Watch" award by the Wisconsin Restaurant Association.
When she’s not eating, photographing food, writing or planning for TV and radio spots, you’ll find Lori seeking out adventures with her husband Paul, traveling, cooking, reading, learning, snuggling with her cats and looking for ways to make a difference.
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