Looking for new spots to try? During Dining Month, Lori Fredrich is dishing out must-tries in 20 different dining categories, from brunch to BBQ and everything in between. Here's what she's recommended so far!
Cumin, coriander, cardamom, fenugreek, garam masala. The warming spices that define the Indian and Pakistani canon are also part of what makes the cuisine stand out from the crowd. In fact, if it’s flavor you’re looking for, its tough to go wrong with a comforting meal of butter chicken, chana masala and saag.
That said, if you love Indian fare, you've also likely noticed that those dishes (all from Punjab in Northern India) show up on nearly every menu. Most venues in Milwaukee feature large menus showcasing a broad swath of popular dishes, rather than taking a deeper dive into the cuisine of the owners' hometowns and regions. If I had my way, I'd love for us to have more of the latter.
That said, these restaurants were chosen because they've made an effort to showcase dishes that hint at the diversity found in the cuisines of India and Pakistan. And yes, their food is delicious!
Bollywood Grill
1038 N. Jackson St., (414) 271-8200
bollywoodgrill.us
I’ve never had a bad meal at this lower East Side restaurant, which stays true to its name by broadcasting Bollywood films on televisions throughout the dining room and serving up a menu of both Pakistani and Indian fare.
I’m particularly fond of a number of their vegetarian dishes including the buttery dal makhni featuring black and kidney beans; the bagara bainga (eggplant with sesame, peanuts and garam masala); and the masala dosa, thin flavorful crepes served with sambar and coconut chutney. But if meat is what you’re craving, opt for one of their sizzling platters of tangy, beautifully spiced chicken (or paneer, lamb or seafood), fresh from the tandoor.
Get outside the box and try their Peshawari na'an stuffed with cashews, raisins and coconut. Though traditionally eaten for breakfast, it's delicious alongside a fragrant spicy curry.
India Garden
2930 N. 117th St., Wauwatosa, (414) 235-9220
indiagardenwauwatosa.net
The menu at India garden is expansive, featuring dishes from both the north and south of India. So it's tempting to fall back on dishes you know. But it pays to explore and try something new!
You can try Chicken Chettinadu, a complex dish from Chettinadu in Southern India. It's an area known for its complex masalas, made by roasting and grinding whole spices with grated coconut and curry leaves. Or explore Mughlai cuisine, which blends the traditions of India, Central Asia and Islam, in dishes like beef shahikorma which features tender beef, a creamy sauce, raisins and cashews.
You can also make a meal of vegetable dishes thanks to standouts like paneer mushroom masala, aloo chole (chickpeas, potatoes and tomato in a fragrant, spiced sauce) and beans porial, which is a great example of a dry southern curry featuring green beans cooked with mustard seeds, curry leaves, coconut, chiles and black lentils.
India Garden is also a good bet for date night; you can get dinners for two (meat, vegetable or seafood) for $50-$60.
Peshawar
7510 W. Layton Ave., Greenfield, (414) 800-4226
eatatpeshawar.com
Among the newer Pakistani restaurants in the city, Peshawar offers a combination of Pakistani and Indian staples.
Their menu features an assortment of kebabs, a showing of vegetable, chicken and mutton curries, biryani and a number of notable Pakistani meat stews including the comfort food staple, beef nihari, and haleem, a flavorful stew of shredded beef with lentils, pounded barley and wheat which originated in Persia.
The mutton kahari is tender and liberally flavored with ginger, garlic, turmeric and green chilies. And don't overlook the chapli kebab featuring richly spiced patties of minced beef flecked with tomato, onion and pomegranate seeds; it’s delicious with the accompanying cilantro chutney.
Ruta's Fresh Indian Fare
Ruta’s Fresh Indian Fare
207 W. Freshwater Way, (414) 509-6802
instagram.com/rutasmke
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Set your expectations aside. Ruta’s offers a whole new view of Indian fare thanks to its fast-casual model, which knits together the varied flavors of Indian cuisine, particularly that in Western climes like Goa, with Ayurvedic principles to create offerings that are convenient, customizable and easy to access.
At Ruta's, guests are invited to build their own meal, whether it be a bowl or a toasted na'an melt filled with a choice of protein (including steak, pork, chicken, tofu, chickpeas) sauces and vegetables. Even better, the options were created to be utterly foolproof, so any combination of elements you choose will taste good together. You can also spice things up or tone things back as desired.
If you like things spicy (as I do), try your choice of protein with mirchi sauce, alongside turmeric carrots, coconut slaw, kale slaw and mustard beets with a side of kali sauce!
Saffron
223 N. Water St., (414) 539-4980
saffronmke.com
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If you're looking for Indian fare that reflects an evolution of the cuisine, there's also Saffron. The food here is fresh, modern and changes with the seasons.
You'll find shareable plates like crispy spiced cauliflower redolant with ginger and garlic and served with their flavorful sauce; and tasty Lasooni Chicken Tikka featuring pieces of tender marinated chicken with fig chutney and spiced beets.
But you'll also find beautifully prepared dishes from the tandoor, like smoked lamb chops or octopus with mushroom fondue; bright salmon curry with green mango sauce; and vegetable based gems like Palak Nadru Kofta featuring dumplings made of lotus and paneer in spinach sauce with crispy puffed lotus seeds. Be sure to try the deliciously different fig na'an as well.
If you're dining with the group, be sure to end on a sweet note with the Foggy Kulfi (pistachio, rose, mango and cardamom). It's a beautiful (and delicious) way to end your meal.
Also: don't sleep on the cocktails coming out of Saffron's bar. Most are creative takes on familiar classics; but they incorporate botanicals and spices that mirror Saffron's food menu, so every drink is also unlike anything you've tried before. Don't drink? Their mocktails are equally as thoughtful.
As a passionate champion of the local dining scene, Lori has reimagined the restaurant critic's role into that of a trusted dining concierge, guiding food lovers to delightful culinary discoveries and memorable experiences.
Lori is an avid cook whose accrual of condiments and spices is rivaled only by her cookbook collection. Her passion for the culinary industry was birthed while balancing A&W root beer mugs as a teenage carhop, fed by insatiable curiosity and fueled by the people whose stories entwine with every dish. Lori is the author of two books: the "Wisconsin Field to Fork" cookbook and "Milwaukee Food". Her work has garnered journalism awards from entities including the Milwaukee Press Club. In 2024, Lori was honored with a "Top 20 Women in Hospitality to Watch" award by the Wisconsin Restaurant Association.
When she’s not eating, photographing food, writing or planning for TV and radio spots, you’ll find Lori seeking out adventures with her husband Paul, traveling, cooking, reading, learning, snuggling with her cats and looking for ways to make a difference.
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