Looking for new spots to try? During Dining Month, Lori Fredrich is dishing out must-tries in 20 different dining categories, from brunch to BBQ and everything in between. Here's what she's recommended so far!
Most people recognize Thai staples: Jasmine rice, green curry, tom yum soup and pad thai. But what about Lao fare? Fresh herbs, hearty soups, grilled meats and signature sticky rice are just a few of the hallmarks of a cuisine which has – for many years – taken a back seat to Thai food. But that's no longer the case.
In fact, if you want to learn about either cuisine, you need only to look to the new crop of young chefs who are proudly cooking up dishes that represent both Lao and Thai food culture.
If you always order pad thai or volcano chicken, consider this an invitation to branch out and try something new.
Mom’s Kitchen
2177 Silvernail Rd., Pewaukee, (262) 300-7577
mom-kitchen.com
Sarinlada Panyasopa and her wife Neranchana Yabkaset opened Mom’s Kitchen last summer. Its since proven to be a worthy destination for flavorful Thai fare served up in a beautifully appointed modern restaurant.
The menu, which includes both Thai fare and sushi features most of the common Thai staples like pad thai, red, green, yellow and mussaman curries, tom yum soup and pad see ew. But if you dig a bit deeper, the rewards are delicious.
Bright fresh moo nam tok features tender slices of grilled pork tossed with fresh herbs, toasted rice powder and a zesty dressing redolant of lime and fish sauce. Meanwhile, Mom’s holy basil with ground pork (pad kra pao), a popular Thai stir fry made, was rich with flavor, showcasing not only the delicious flavor of the holy basil, but also a balance of sweet and savory with just a bit of heat. I ordered mine medium and it came “Wisconsin medium,” so next time I’ll up my game or order a bit of chili sauce on the side.
I was also delighted to find hang lay pork curry, a specialty of Northern Thailand. The dish features tender pork that’s been slow-cooked in an aromatic sauce made with ingredients like tamarind, lemongrass, galangal and a host of warming curry spices like fennel, white cardamom and cinnamon. It’s not as sweet as some Thai curries, but instead loaded with rich, complex flavors that make it worth seeking out.
It didn’t surprise me when a server told me that Panyasopa’s mother oversees the kitchen (hence the name); you can taste the tradition she brings in every bite.
An Ox Cafe
An Ox Cafe
7411 W. Hampton Ave., (414) 336-0064
anoxcafe.com
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Another newer spot, An Ox Cafe serves up Thai and Lao comfort in dishes like classic som tum (papaya salad), larb and a variety of curries including red, green and panang.
But don't sleep on unique offerings like their delectably crispy marinated roasted pork which is served with steamed rice and house hot sauce (be sure to ask for that!). It's one of those remarkable dishes you won't be able to get out of your head.
I'd also highly recommend their nam kow, a dish featuring deep fried rice seasoned with curry and coconut, nam sausage and fresh lime juice. It's texturally diverse and the flavors dance like a little party on the palate.
Rice N Roll Bistro
1952 N. Farwell Ave., (414) 220-9944
Ricenrollbistro.com
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Artful, thoughtfully prepared sushi at a Thai restaurant? Traditional Thai fare at a sushi restaurant? Why yes. In fact, you’ll find both at Rice N Roll, where the owners have brought both their Thai heritage and years of restaurant experience to the proverbial table.
Need a place to start? Crabmeat Fried Rice is a delicious indulgence featuring flavorful fried rice with garlic and green onions. It comes wrapped in a banana leaf and topped with a generous helping of fresh lump crab meat.
Meanwhile, the Khaosoy is everything you’d want in a Thai curry, from sweet and spicy to creamy and complex. There’s beautiful texture from both the crispy and soft noodles, plus plenty of flavor from shallots, scallions and a boiled egg. It's adapted from a well-loved family recipe and you can taste the difference.
Room Service
2159 S. Kinnickinnic Ave., (414) 414-9789
roomservicebayview.com
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Step through the doors at Room Service and it's easy to forget that you’re in Bay View. Not only does the chic new restaurant feature gorgeous modern details, but the scene merely sets the stage for a menu that represents the fare of Thailand and Japan in a way that’s both respectful of the history and proudly representative of the unadulterated flavors inherent to the cuisines.
Highlights on the menu include starters like the beautiful Chor Muang, savory dumplings filled with sweet-salty radish and peanut filling, wrapped in a tender butterfly pea flour dyed dough and sweet savory chashu pork buns.
More substantial selections include the Tom Yum soup with River Prawn, a creamy aromatic take on the traditional soup; Namyapu, a creamy Southern Thai curry that's redolent with the flavors of chiles, coriander, lemongrass and ginger and deeply complemented by sweet, tender pieces of crab; and the Hung Lay Short Rib, a meaty take on the traditional Northern Thai curry. The meat is tantalizingly tender and the dish offers a depth and complexity that exceeds that of many Thai curries.
Sweet Basil
6509 S. 27th St., Franklin (414) 301-4126
Sweetbasilmke.com
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Note: Due to illness in the family, exercise patience if you visit Sweet Basil in the next few weeks. They might be a bit shorthanded in the kitchen! As always, be kind and tip well!
If the full flavors of street food are what you’re after, you’ll find them in spades at Sweet Basil, which offers playful, modern takes on Lao and Thai classics.
Choose from classic Thai curries or street food favorites like Lao sausage or grilled steak. Or spice things up with playful offerings like jeow bong fried rice, which builds upon their classic house fried rice with the spicey citrusy zing of jeow bong.
Can’t decide? You can’t go wrong with the OG Platter, a feast for two featuring chicken wings (six), Lao-style grilled steak, Lao sausage, papaya salad, fresh pork rinds and sticky rice. Be sure to add a jeow sampler (flavorful Lao condiments that taste great with everything, including sticky rice!) Be sure to eat it Lao style: with your hands!
As a passionate champion of the local dining scene, Lori has reimagined the restaurant critic's role into that of a trusted dining concierge, guiding food lovers to delightful culinary discoveries and memorable experiences.
Lori is an avid cook whose accrual of condiments and spices is rivaled only by her cookbook collection. Her passion for the culinary industry was birthed while balancing A&W root beer mugs as a teenage carhop, fed by insatiable curiosity and fueled by the people whose stories entwine with every dish. Lori is the author of two books: the "Wisconsin Field to Fork" cookbook and "Milwaukee Food". Her work has garnered journalism awards from entities including the Milwaukee Press Club. In 2024, Lori was honored with a "Top 20 Women in Hospitality to Watch" award by the Wisconsin Restaurant Association.
When she’s not eating, photographing food, writing or planning for TV and radio spots, you’ll find Lori seeking out adventures with her husband Paul, traveling, cooking, reading, learning, snuggling with her cats and looking for ways to make a difference.
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