At age 24, Shanel Regier is one of Milwaukee's most prominent emerging fashion designers. A Nebraska native and self taught seamstress, she moved to Milwaukee to attend MIAD, where a major in sculpture paved a path to fashion design. She's got a penchant for the Victorian era and says that her one-of-a-kind corsets are her best selling item.
Her first fashion show of '06 -- "Parisian Roots: Performance in Couture" -- is set for Saturday, March 25 at Flux Design's large warehouse. OMC caught up with her to chat about Milwaukee's own fashion sense, the state of our scene and to get the scoop on what we can expect from the designer come spring.
OMC: How long have you been sewing?
S.R.: Well, aside from the sewing class I took in junior high, about three years. I started in 2003.
OMC: What motivated your interest in sewing and design?
S.R.: I was attending MIAD as a sculpture major and I was working on my senior thesis. It ended up being more and more wearable sculpture and then slowly made its way into fashionable clothing. My fashion shows still have a sculptural element to them. I like to incorporate the bizarre, the unwearable.
OMC: Is the majority of your work unwearable?
S.R.: I'd call it "event specific." My stuff is wearable, but definitely not everyday casual wear, for the most part.
OMC: What's been your motivation for your designs?
S.R.: Most of my inspiration comes from historical, or period, clothing. No matter what, I always go back to the 19th century Victorian era.
OMC: Who do you design for?
S.R.: I think a lot of independent designers end up designing for themselves, partially because that's what you have to bounce things off of. I also design things, stylistically, that I would want to wear. So, of course I've got a lot of 18th and 19th century type stuff, because I love it.
But the reason I love the clothing of that time is because it's got so much controversy behind it. Many people nowadays think the clothing back then was so prude and modest and repressive for women, but there's a flip side to it. I can't think of another era when the clothing contoured women's bodies so closely and had so much sexual energy going through it. The corset itself has two contrasting sides to it -- it is restrictive and kind of controlling, but on the other hand, if you put a corset on, I personally feel like it is kind of stimulating.
There's also an argument that doctors of that time period didn't want women to wear corsets or other tight clothing because they felt that it interfered with motherhood and childbirth -- that a women who wore a corset was more concerned about fashion than being at home and being a mother. So, if you look at it that way, it wasn't about women being submissive, it was about women taking control. It was liberating because back then, it was completely out of the norm for a women not to make domesticity a priority.
I really enjoy the psychology of clothing, why we wear what we wear, past and present.
OMC: What are your thoughts on Milwaukee's fashion scene?
S.R.: I'll start by saying that I went down to Chicago on Saturday and checked out a couple boutiques featuring emerging designer and I was really not all that impressed. I mean, besides having more stuff to look at, I don't think the quality or the originality is much more than what we have here in Milwaukee. Granted, we have less shops and a smaller community, but for the amount of people I think we're making an effort and doing a good job.
I still think it's hard, though, to get people to appreciate one-of-a-kind or custom work and to understand the value and price that goes behind it. For example, a true couturier will make a sample dress to work with to get all the bugs out, and then when everything fits, will move on to the final. That process alone can take 20 hours and that's not including traveling for materials. Sometimes there are four or five fittings for each piece and once you add all that stuff up, you can see how a dress can easily get up to $200 to $500. And I don't think designers are pricing it that high because they think it's that unique, it's more that they have to value their time. When you're not mass producing it's hard to cut down on your time or the cost of fabric. I guess that's the thing that I wish Milwaukee had a better grasp on.
Also, I think most people are used to mass-produced clothing and the way it fits. So then when people try on custom work they feel restricted, like they can't move because it hugs closer to the body.
OMC: Maybe Milwaukee is the type of city that just isn't comfortable having clothes that are so form fitting -- maybe Milwaukeeans need a little wiggle room?
S.R.: Right, and that's the thing about my clothing. I think it's very flattering because it works out the female bugs. It's sexually charged, but it has a way of hiding and minimizing any flaws that we might have. I especially love making corsets because they minimize the waist and give you a little lift up top.
The other thing I would say about Milwaukee's scene is that there aren't enough places for people to dress up or wear my clothing. The thing is, there are events here, but every time I've been to a black tie event or a dressy event, people are wearing jeans, so I don't know if it's just our city or the nation as a whole that is getting more casual?
OMC: That being said, how hard is it to be a successful designer here? Is this your sole income?
S.R.: Well, as of last Friday, this is it. Friday was my last day at my day job.
It's just come down to putting everything you've got into your work. I think I wasn't mentally allowing myself to get fully into it because I always knew that I had the extra income coming in. I see it as it's now or never, and you'll either fail or succeed on your own.
OMC: Congratulations. That's a big step. Do you think you'll stay here?
S.R.: Thanks. I would like to, if I can make a living. I feel like I have a lot of support from the community, at least verbally.
OMC: Which other local designers do you admire?
S.R.: I really Laddhavan Sutana. She sells at Lela, too. She does a lot of knitwear, and it's really cute. I think that she has a lot of knowledge and her technical skill is pretty good and she's humble. I really like that in an artist and a designer.
OMC: What can you tell me about your spring show?
S.R.: It's called "Parisian Roots: Performance in Couture" and it's at Flux Design, 811 E. Vienna Ave. Everything's going to have this 19th century, Parisian, can-can kind of feel to it -- a lot of toned down colors on the outside with a splash of bright colors underneath. One of the ideas for the show was to play on the word "roots" as both being the idea of commoners, everyday people and the working class, but also throwing in the actual interpretation. The first 20 pieces are going to be a collaboration with local graphic designer Nick Waraksa. We're doing printing on the fabrics that have very organic patterns. I'm also going to have a minimum of 30 solo pieces after that.
Because the clothing is inspired by performance art, we are going to incorporate dancers and musicians into the show to give it a street performance feel. The pre-show cocktail hour starts at 7 p.m., the show is at 7:45 and the post-show starts at 8:30. The tickets are $10 general admission, $20 reserved seating.
OMC: Was the show all your idea?
S.R.: Yes. I do two solo shows a year in Milwaukee -- one for spring and for fall. And then if there are charities or other events that are putting out a fashion show, I do those as well. I work with local jewelry designer Lauren Duff for all my shows. My pieces are then sold at Lela as samples because they do have slight flaws by the time they're off the runway. Everything I make is one of a kind. If someone likes something but it doesn't fit right, I can custom make it for them.
Shanel Regier's line can be found at Lela, 321 N. Broadway. Her Web site is shanelregier.com. Tickets for "Parisian Roots: Performance in Couture" can be purchased via her Web site.
OnMilwaukee.com staff writer Julie Lawrence grew up in Wauwatosa and has lived her whole life in the Milwaukee area.
As any “word nerd” can attest, you never know when inspiration will strike, so from a very early age Julie has rarely been seen sans pen and little notebook. At the University of Wisconsin-Milwaukee it seemed only natural that she major in journalism. When OnMilwaukee.com offered her an avenue to combine her writing and the city she knows and loves in late 2004, she knew it was meant to be. Around the office, she answers to a plethora of nicknames, including “Lar,” (short for “Larry,” which is short for “Lawrence”) as well as the mysteriously-sourced “Bill Murray.”