There’s something fresh and lovely about Greek fare in the summertime. It’s likely due to the seasonality of the cuisine, which depends heavily on summery vegetables like zucchini, eggplant and yemista (stuffed vegetables) and fresh, light seafood.
And while it’s a little early for summer vegetables to be prime in Wisconsin, I can see the end of asparagus season on the horizon and that means fresh summer squash and plenty of new flavors to look forward to.
And that means it’s a lovely time to revisit Avli, 1818 N. Hubbard St., where their seasonal menu is beginning to look a lot like summer.
When it comes to eating at Avli, I’m a big fan of the shareability of their menu. That includes their selection of delicious spreads, which range from earthy, lemony hummus; smokey eggplant-based melitzanosalata; whipped tirokafteri with feta and pepper; and their smooth taramasalata flavored with cod roe and lemon. All are served with pita for $10.95 and create delightful, shareable options for grazing. I’m also a fan of their plump kataifi prawns, wrapped in shredded pastry and dipped in spicy thyme-spiked aioli ($16.95).
These things are fan favorites for a reason. And I’ll save a summer evening or two for them as part of a Greek meze with glasses of ouzo on the patio.
On this weeknight, we opted for a half-liter of Avli’s Cavino Rosé, one of three Taverna wines that’s available by the glass, half-liter or full liter ($18).
And from there, we took the recommendations of our server. She was bubbly and she was training a new employee, so I presumed she had been around long enough to recommend worthwhile dishes.
We started off with the Watermelon Salad, which was presented beautifully with a big slab of delicious Greek feta and a generous amount of mint, onion and dressing on the top ($14.95).
From there, the dish was ripe and sweet with a lovely juxtaposition between the fruit, the cucumber, the feta and the subtle basil vinaigrette.
Jenni also directed us to the Zucchini & Eggplant Chips, which were thin, crisp and layered in attractive shingles ($14.95).
To my surprise, they were also layered atop a serving of skordalia, a Greek dip made from potatoes and garlic that I haven’t had in years. Neither the zucchini nor eggplant were overly seasoned. But when paired with the skordalia, they easily took on the garlicky flavor.
From there, we decided to share two entrees. The first is a summery option, Lavraki Fricassé featuring simply cooked Branzino with Greek greens and lemon ($36.95).
The fish was beautifully cooked with a clean, delicate flavor that lets its natural sweetness, and the subtlety of the dill on top, shine through. Even the tender greens held a subtle brininess that was satisfying and pleasantly simple.
On the other side of things, the Moussaka, featuring layers of eggplant, potato, beef ragu and bechamel, was full of flavor ($22.95).
It was presented differently than I’ve seen it at other Avli locations. Rather than being built in a deep pan, cooked and then cut, this was finished in a large ramekin, which kept everything hot and made it a bit easier to eat.
Dessert was a splurge. We knew we’d get the Mosaic, which is a favorite, but we ended up with the Sifnos Cheesecake, as well.
Named for the Island of Sifnos, the crustless cheesecake was topped with honey, apricot and a subtle waft of cinnamon ($11.95).
The generous dollop of honey and sweet apricot gave the light, slightly sweet cheesecake just the right amount of ooph.
The Mosaic, made with chocolate fudge, Papadopoulos biscuit, brandy, fig, walnut, pistachio, almond, hazelnut, vanilla ice cream and the topping of a sour cherry ($8.95).
It’s complex and not overly sweet. But just sugary enough to offer a satisfying end to a meal.
We paired them up with a shot of Mastiha, a drink made with the resin of the mastic tree ($4). It’s often enjoyed alongside fried foods or as a digestif. If you like gin, you might like this herbal tonic, which is also delicious enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon.
Avli is open Monday through Thursday from 4 to 9 p.m., Friday from 4 to 10 p.m., Saturday from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Reservations can be made online.
As a passionate champion of the local dining scene, Lori has reimagined the restaurant critic's role into that of a trusted dining concierge, guiding food lovers to delightful culinary discoveries and memorable experiences.
Lori is an avid cook whose accrual of condiments and spices is rivaled only by her cookbook collection. Her passion for the culinary industry was birthed while balancing A&W root beer mugs as a teenage carhop, fed by insatiable curiosity and fueled by the people whose stories entwine with every dish. Lori is the author of two books: the "Wisconsin Field to Fork" cookbook and "Milwaukee Food". Her work has garnered journalism awards from entities including the Milwaukee Press Club. In 2024, Lori was honored with a "Top 20 Women in Hospitality to Watch" award by the Wisconsin Restaurant Association.
When she’s not eating, photographing food, writing or planning for TV and radio spots, you’ll find Lori seeking out adventures with her husband Paul, traveling, cooking, reading, learning, snuggling with her cats and looking for ways to make a difference.
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