{image1}In Lima, Peru time seems to slow as the meeting of past and present collide effortlessly in this centuries-old city. Like the beautifully designed buildings that line the Plaza de Armas, the Peruvian culinary tradition is the culmination of the centuries and cultures that have passed through this ancient city.
And while Peru may seem worlds away from Milwaukee, it may be a little closer to home than one might think. In fact, for the past seven years a little piece of Lima has been thriving at El Tondero, 2462 S. 13th St., where authentic Peruvian Criollo Cuisine is served up four nights a week.
Owned and operated by Peruvian native Victor Caceda, the restaurant proudly displays posters and art from the city that inspired its conception. Now 60, Caceda has lived in the United States for the past 34 years, and came to Milwaukee with his wife Maria hoping to open their own restaurant.
"When I came to Milwaukee it was love at first sight. I liked the people, got a great job, and the way I choose to give back to this city who has given me so much, was to open this restaurant," Caceda says. "We are very proud to work for Milwaukee, because they made us feel at home and it has been a very nice fit."
{image2}After experimenting with spices and flavors, Maria and Victor Caceda developed 21 plates all at affordable prices. Caceda is able to charge less for these seafood platters because he doesn't advertise; claiming his only publicity is delivered by the word of mouth from many satisfied customers. Dishes range in price anywhere from $10.95 to $14.95 depending on it's ingredients. For those not crazy about seafood or meat, not to fear, El Tondero's main goal is customer satisfaction! And, since nothing is pre-prepared, each dish can be augmented to each customer's liking.
"When we first came to Milwaukee, we asked people what kind of restaurant they would like to see added to the area. I was surprised to learn that many wanted a place to get good seafood, especially since many Peruvian dishes are prepared mainly with red meat," Caceda says.
"So from opinions taken from patrons over time, we have developed these 21 plates, 75 percent are mainly seafood, 25 percent chicken, pork and beef. But all are 100 percent fresh. We make the food right at the moment of the order."
Caceda notes that Peruvian food takes its cues from the Europeans who immigrated to Peru over the past few centuries, and is not "Mexican" food; instead, it combines shades of French, Spanish and Italian cuisines, producing a unique taste Caceda terms "La Comida Culinaria Limenia." Some of their more popular dishes (although Caceda insists they are all favorites) are the "Picante de Camarones"(sautéed shrimps in a wine sauce served with rice) and the "Saltado"(sautéed fried potatoes, tomatoes, onions and green peas served in a spicy red sauce with your choice of chicken, beef or seafood).
{image3}After 25 years of marriage, Maria passed away 10 months ago, leaving Victor with a broken heart and a restaurant to run. As a tribute to his wife, Victor has taken over the kitchen, attributing his personal strength and courage to God and the city of Milwaukee, which has so embraced him.
"Somebody had to go first. And while it is hard for me to stay here, because I have had all these feelings, everything hurts, I stay as a tribute to her," Caceda says.
"This place is my home and it is my country, too. I love America and I was lucky to have the privilege to meet this woman and learn what it means to love. I discovered myself, what kind of person I was and what I could be. Unfortunately I have suffered a lot for my loss, but God has given me the strength to deal with this grief, I will continue to run El Tondero for Maria. She was a super cook and no one has tasted food the way my wife was able to prepare it."
Served directly from the stove to the table, the Peruvian food served at El Tondero is made with care through expertly timed marinating and control of the cooking flame. For even better service, Caceda suggests that those familiar with the menu should call in orders ahead of time, so that their food will be ready upon arrival.
For Victor Caceda, El Tondero has been a realization of a lifelong dream, and he was only too happy to build a new life and future here in Milwaukee.
"I encourage everyone to follow their destinies," Caceda says. "I try to look at all this as an opportunity in my life, a place I was supposed to start over. I came from New Jersey, where I met my wife and I am going to stay in Milwaukee as long as God gives me the health, courage and opportunity to do so. We are very happy to do any thing for our people."
"El Tondero is open for dinner Thursday through Sunday from 5 to 10 p.m.. Call (414) 384-8835.
