It’s hard to believe that Saffron, 223 N. Water St., will soon celebrate three years as an Historic Third Ward staple, offering diners an increasingly varied menu of modern Indian fare.
Their newest menu, which was released this week, contributes to the restaurant’s evolution with the addition of a laundry list of new options, including fancy new appetizers, fresh vegetarian, fish and meat-based entrees, fun desserts and a couple of cocktails served with a waft of drama. We ate through quite a few with the help of a couple of good friends.
Based on the sheer number of new dishes, it's likely to take me a while to work my way through the entire menu. However, here are some of the items that stood out from the crowd during my dinner on Monday evening.
1. Canapé Flight
Indian-inspired canapés? If you’re feeling a bit fancy, these are a fun, indulgent way to begin your night. The beautifully designed one or two-bite appetizers are both lovely and flavorful. Start with the crab pie tee (a crisp flower-shaped bite made with mild-flavored crab and potato) and move up to the sweet and savory potato achappam, the duck croquette (which reminded me a bit of duck-infused falafel) and lastly the rich lamb tarts ($28).
2. Gin & Jade
Of the drinks we tried, the Gin & Jade was the best of the bunch. Nicely balanced, it incorporated the fresh flavor of honeydew melon into gin. With just a touch of Midori, it was subtle and not too sweet. Meanwhile, the aroma of the melon was enhanced by a clever tea diffuser filled with aromatics and dry ice, offering just a bit of drama on the side, $18.
3. Chicken 65
I’ve never seen a take on the often incendiary Chicken 65 before. But I’d gladly eat this slightly milder version anytime. Tender bites of chicken, flavored with podi masala, are buried beneath a gorgeous nest of edible flower-garnished fried kataifi (rice vermicelli) that gets broken up and added to the chicken, giving it a lively, crispy texture, $20.
4. Charred Paneer Steak
The mild Indian cheese is layered with pesto and served with mild, but flavor-popping red pepper coulis and smoked tomato curry, $29. Lots of lovely and subtle flavors here and plenty of sauces to flavor your rice or na’an.
5. Mushroom Do Pyaza
This take on the popular Northern mushroom dish combines yogurt-marinated mushrooms cooked in the tandoor with flavorful spinach puree drizzled with a bit of sweet apricot gel, $28. The mushrooms are earthy and tender and you’ll want to scoop up all the delicious spinach with a side of na’an or roti.
6. Branzino Malabar Curry
Tender, mild branzino filets are cooked in banana leaf and served with a wash of Southern Indian curry showcasing coconut milk, tamarind and just a hint of heat from chili oil, $39. The curry is poured tableside so you can experience the fragrance as it coats the exterior of the fish.
7. Smoked Goat Curry
I’ve been waiting for a beautifully flavored goat dish like this one to appear on the menu at Saffron. Smoked paprika offers depth to this curry featuring tender, braised goat (take note that it has been braised with its bones, which amps up the flavor, but you’ll want to take care when eating), $35. Also new on the menu – and delicious with this dish – is rosemary na’an, which offers up a subtle, flavorful note of the fragrant herb ($7).
8. Foggy Lava Lamp 2.0
If you enjoy the drama that dry ice brings to the table (in this case creating a lava lamp-like effect, thanks to blueberries, which bounce around in the base of the flask and wafts of smoke produced by the magic of dry ice), you’ll get a kick out of this visual crowd pleaser. The cocktail itself, made with ginger-infused vodka, pomegranate liqueur and pineapple, is notably sweet and tart with an acidic pop that reminds me a bit of a Jolly Rancher or Sweet Tart, $18.
9. Shahi Tukda
This iconic Indian dessert features rounds of brioche that have been fried and topped with sweet saffron cream. It’s a sensational combination of both flavors and textures with the crispy brioche holding its own against the sweet, earthy and slightly floral saffron cream. Fresh tart berries, pistachios and dried flowers give the dessert both a pop of flavor an an aesthetic punch, $15.
10. 24 Carat Coffee Stones
These one-bite chocolate gems are probably the perfect ending to a meal at Saffon that I’ve experienced so far. Bite into the rich chocolate shell decorated with gold leaf and you’ll be treated to a mouth full of flavorful coffee that melds beautifully with the chocolate ($15).
As a passionate champion of the local dining scene, Lori has reimagined the restaurant critic's role into that of a trusted dining concierge, guiding food lovers to delightful culinary discoveries and memorable experiences.
Lori is an avid cook whose accrual of condiments and spices is rivaled only by her cookbook collection. Her passion for the culinary industry was birthed while balancing A&W root beer mugs as a teenage carhop, fed by insatiable curiosity and fueled by the people whose stories entwine with every dish. Lori is the author of two books: the "Wisconsin Field to Fork" cookbook and "Milwaukee Food". Her work has garnered journalism awards from entities including the Milwaukee Press Club. In 2024, Lori was honored with a "Top 20 Women in Hospitality to Watch" award by the Wisconsin Restaurant Association.
When she’s not eating, photographing food, writing or planning for TV and radio spots, you’ll find Lori seeking out adventures with her husband Paul, traveling, cooking, reading, learning, snuggling with her cats and looking for ways to make a difference.