{image1}They say you always want what you can't have, and in the case of The Social restaurant, it's true. In the old location, which we lovingly called "the sardine can," we often waited an hour or more to get seated, but the new location, 114 E. Pittsburgh Ave., has plenty of seating -- including a spacious patio overlooking industrial Milwaukee. Plus, it's sleeker, trendier and the chefs now cook in a real-live kitchen instead of behind a crowded bar.

All the same, we found ourselves missing the old space, sardines and all, until we saw the menu.

Most of our old favorites are still there, including the warm duck salad ($15.95) and the mac 'n cheese ($13.95), but additions like a veggie fondue, raw oyster bar and a tempting array of seafood entrees freshen the old menu.

We started our meal with crabby tater tots ($8.95), a rich appetizer of soft, warm crabmeat breaded with potato shavings, formed into the classic "tater tot" shape and fried. Quite possibly the most melt-in-your-mouth experience we've had in ages, our only complaint was that the accompanying white dipping sauce was flavorless.

{image2}Next up was the matzo ball soup ($5.95) and a house salad. The soup was good, with an incredible chicken broth and small, dense matzo balls. I missed the airy matzo balls popular with the Jewish side of my family, but still enjoyed the heavier soup. The salad ($5.95), made primarily from spinach leaves and cubed tomatoes and onions, was tossed in a fabulous house dressing. Simple, fresh and flavorful -- exactly what you want in a starter salad.

For the main course, I went with the butternut squash risotto ($15.95) cooked in truffle oil and topped with sliced portabellas. The risotto was rich and soft and just how I remembered it from the old days.

My dinner date ventured into new territory, ordering the pan-fried chicken drizzled in a light and flavorful gravy. It came with mashed potatoes, obviously made from scratch, and bursting with flavor without being too buttery.

Undoubtedly, The Social's greatest strength is the chefs' ability to take simple dishes to the next level by bringing out every flavor. "This is the way food should be," said a diner at the table behind us.

{image3}We finished with a small Social Platter for dessert, featuring a sample of their signature brownies, truffles, strawberry shortcake, rice pudding and caramelized banana. Sinful in a good way, this dessert will satisfy even those with a freakishly large sweet tooth. The brownies, rich, super-moist and dark, were our favorite.

During the meal, we enjoyed Eric Oates' large oil paintings of actresses Mina Suvari, Sarah Michelle Gellar and Jennifer Garner. High art meets Hollywood? Interesting concept, we thought. Later, our conversation drifted to the parking issue, which is a slight concern. On a busy Saturday night, the competition with Moct-goers for precious parking spaces was great, and we finally resorted to parking two blocks away.

That said, on our way out we heard the Stone Roses song "I Wanna Be Adored" over the sound system. If The Social can maintain this impressive -- nearly impeccable -- level of cuisine and service, adoration is definitely on deck.

Call (414) 270-0438 for reservations.