Thanksgiving is on the horizon and you’re hosting (or attending) a family dinner. What to do about wine? How to find something that pairs well with both turkey and cranberries? How to find a wine that appeals to you, your parents and Aunt Millie?
It can be challenging, but, says, Jamie Boldt, Wisconsin sales manager for Pure Wine Wisconsin, a few simple rules can help guide the way...
"Always drink what you like and want. The only rule is that there are no rules," he says, but adds, " If there is a rule it is don’t drink anything with too much tannin. Stay away from cabernet, young nebbiolo, young sangiovese.
Instead, Boldt suggests, go for something juicier, and with a lighter or medium body. Think pinor noir, gamay, barbera or grenache.
"Something that will counter the dryness that most turkey preparations inherently exhibit," he says.
If your preferences lean toward whites, steer clear of big, oaky whites that can be overpowering.
"They tend to ‘cover up’ food," Boldt says. "Riesling, pinot grigio/gris, gewurtztraminer, sauvignon blanc are the aromatic white grapes that should celebrate with you at the table.
"Always drink dry riesling. That is more of a life rule, not just Thanksgiving."
As for specific suggestions, Boldt, of course, has a few...
"Lambrusco, good dry lambrusco, is always your friend at thanksgiving," he says. "Lots of great examples out there in reputable retailers. Cavicchioli and Cleto Chiarli are two top producers."
But, he cautions, a Thanksgiving day favorite may be a little harder to find this year, and you’ll have to pay for it.
"Vouvray, always a turkey day staple will, generally speaking, be in short supply this year due to apocalyptic weather which shrunk crops. You will find them but they will be more scarce than ever before."
Katie Espinosa, general manager at Bacchus, certified sommelier and certified specialist of wine, is a big fan of bubbly.
"I think Champagne is a must," she says. "It is my most favorite. because it pairs well with everything. The effervescence cuts through rich dishes without tiring out the palate. It will also carry you through from appetizers to desserts. What more could you ask for?"
And, like Boldt, Espinosa is high on dry riesling, but also suggests a couple other white varietals.
"A good chablis or Oregon chardonnay might be nice choices," she says. "There should be a good balance between fruit, acid and oak without any one thing over powering the other."
When it comes to reds, Espinosa is, again, on the same page as Pure's Boldt, recommending pinor noir, barbera or grenache, and adding sangiovese.
"I think acid is the key," she notes. "These wines all have a good amount of acidity which will keep the wine fresh and lively on the palate while cutting through and complimenting the food."
Potawatomi Hotel & Casino’s Beverage Operations Manager Christian Damiano, as a Certified Sommelier by the Court of Master Sommeliers, feels some pressure to deliver a great wine experience when he arrives at a Thanksgiving feast.
"As the go-to wine person among my family, friends, other acquaintances and at work, I spend a fair amount of time deciding what to bring to Thanksgiving dinner," Damiano says.
"Over the years the pressure has been on to find the right wine for many palates. Our family Thanksgiving dinner can be attended by 30 or more guests and addressing everyone’s style has been challenging."
But his work and his experience means he can make some knowledgeable recommendations.
"Two go-to crowd pleasers are the Evolution wines from Sokol Blosser," he says. "Evolution White has enough acidity to pair with the turkey and is balanced with a hint of fruit sweetness for the cranberries. Evolution Red is a fantastic bridge for the white wine drinker that wants to explore the dark side, not too dry and a hint of jammy fruit. I’ve seen these retail for $11.59 to $18 per bottle.
Ratcheting up to the next price level, Damiano suggests Failla Chardonnay and Pinot Noir Sonoma coast.
"I have been a fan of Failla vineyard since 2002 and love to share the verities of Mr. Ehren Jordan," he says. "The chardonnay is not your typical Sonoma malolactic butter bomb. No … this wine is perfectly balanced, slightly toasty and has great food-friendly acidity. The pinot is true to form and expresses closer to Burgundy in its light color (the color of pinot noir) and feminine style compared to the deep purple extraction that is found in what is labeled pinot from the Sonoma coast. These can be found retailing for between $32-$40 a bottle."
Considering that pressure to wow, Damiano also brings along what he calls a couple "extraordinary selections to share with a few," including his brother Evan, who is also in the wine business.
"The Prisoner wine company Blindfold , a white blend that is deeply layered has a viscosity that coats the palate and has a long lingering finish. It retails around $30-$40," he says.
"And Chateau Musar, a delightful red from Serge Hochar. I have a couple older vintages that are waiting to be shared. An experience tasting Chateau Musar red leaves each participant smiling sip after delightful sip as the wine is constantly changing as it is consumed. Although I have some from the mid ‘90s the current vintages have the same effect and retail for around $36-$45 a bottle."
Born in Brooklyn, N.Y., where he lived until he was 17, Bobby received his BA-Mass Communications from UWM in 1989 and has lived in Walker's Point, Bay View, Enderis Park, South Milwaukee and on the East Side.
He has published three non-fiction books in Italy – including one about an event in Milwaukee history, which was published in the U.S. in autumn 2010. Four more books, all about Milwaukee, have been published by The History Press.
With his most recent band, The Yell Leaders, Bobby released four LPs and had a songs featured in episodes of TV's "Party of Five" and "Dawson's Creek," and films in Japan, South America and the U.S. The Yell Leaders were named the best unsigned band in their region by VH-1 as part of its Rock Across America 1998 Tour. Most recently, the band contributed tracks to a UK vinyl/CD tribute to the Redskins and collaborated on a track with Italian novelist Enrico Remmert.
He's produced three installments of the "OMCD" series of local music compilations for OnMilwaukee.com and in 2007 produced a CD of Italian music and poetry.
In 2005, he was awarded the City of Asti's (Italy) Journalism Prize for his work focusing on that area. He has also won awards from the Milwaukee Press Club.
He has be heard on 88Nine Radio Milwaukee talking about his "Urban Spelunking" series of stories, in that station's most popular podcast.